The Perfect Week In Puglia

Have you ever heard of Puglia? Maybe you’ve seen pictures on your Pinterest feed or in your favorite travel magazines of the iconic rocky coastline, Trulli houses, and beautiful white building towns. Puglia only recently started marketing for tourism in the last 10 or so years, keeping this a well-kept secret for most travellers.

If you’re like me, your pinterest travel board is full of warm destinations with beautiful coastlines. On this trip, we actually went to two different places in Puglia I’ve had on my Pinterest board that I didn’t realize were in Italy in the first place. The first is Grotta della Poesia (Cave of Poetry), and the second is Grotta Palazzese restaurant, an iconic restaurant sitting in a cave overlooking the Adriatic Sea. Talk about pinch me moments!

All in all, we adored our trip to Puglia. This was a semi-scheduled trip, with most of our days planned regarding where we would spend the day, but not down to the details of what sites we’d see, restaurants we’d visit, or cafes to people watch in. So, for this travel guide I’m just going to take you through our daily itinerary from start to finish, highlighting the things we loved the most, where we stayed, and some must-dos you need to consider.

Puglia

Puglia is actually an incredibly large region with so many sites to see. We were there for 8 days total and still didn’t get to see everything the region has to offer. We stayed in the Northeastern side of the region. Maybe one day we’ll get back to the Southern most tip! In my opinion, most of the various sites to see are in the Northeastern region of Puglia around Polignano a Mare. The lower sites near Lecce are where most of the beaches are. So if you’re looking for cute towns stay in the Polignano area. If you’re looking for all of the beach days, head down toward Lecce. The infamous town of Matera is also in Puglia, more toward the center/north end of the boot. For reference, it is a little over an hour drive from Polignano a Mare, and a two hour drive from Lecce.

Some of the iconic towns Puglia has to offer are: (the ones we visited are shown with *)

Polignano a Mare*
Alberobello*
Locorotondo*
Matera
Lecce*
Ostuni
Monopoli* Getting Around Puglia

I highly recommend having a car if you’re looking to see a few sites, or visit a few towns. You can always use the train or bus system, but from our experience those options aren’t as convenient as they usually are in many other Italian cities. Having a car is so helpful.

If you’re flying in, you can fly directly into either Bari (northern Puglia), or Lecce (southern Puglia).

Where to Stay

This is Masseria Le Torri, the Masseria we chose.

Above is an example of a Trulli (though this is a store, not a home).

I’m going to show you in detail the two hotels we decided to stay in. Honestly, these hotels nearly made our trip. I can’t wait for you to stay there and if you do, you have to let me know! But there is a pretty good rule of them of what type of place to stay in during your stay in Puglia.

First off, staying in a Masseria or a Trulli during your stay in Puglia is a must. We couldn’t rave more about our Masseria. A Masseria is an old farm building that was used in the olden days to keep the animals, the farmer’s family, and any equipment they needed for the surrounding farmland. To this day, most Masserias are surrounded by beautiful farmland where they grow the food that is used for the hotel. Of course, these old buildings have been renovated to serve as a hotel, but the charm of their past use still remains. Most are done up in a classic Puglian style with white brick walls, rustic farmhouse decor, and beautiful landscapes.

As for trullis, you can find plenty on Airbnb. Trullis are the ancient way of creating a home in southern Italy, shaped sort of like a stone igloo, and full of charm. A few have been made into bed and breakfasts as well that would be a great option. But if you’re like me, you love a good gourmet breakfast and a clean room at the end of the day. If this is you I highly recommend the Masseria route (especially the one we stayed at). Nope, it’s not sponsored, we just loved it!

Alright, now that you have a bit of an overview, let me take you day by day through our 8 day trip to Italy’s hidden gem. Stick around to the end for what foods you need to try in Puglia too!

Day 1 - arriving to our masseria

The decadent selection for breakfast outside of the freshly made hot dishes!

In normal times, we would definitely fly to Puglia. Given that when we planned this trip we had no idea what the travel restrictions would be, we decided on driving instead (almost 9 hours...yikes!). We ended up being SO glad we drove because we were able to bring back 18 bottles of some rosé we were so excited to try! The drive was actually quite easy and beautiful as well. If you’re coming from the Venice area, it is a great option if you’re not into flying. A good portion runs along the sea for a beautiful view.

Anywho, we left bright and early before the sun, hours before any other travellers decided to head on the road. We arrived in Polignano a Mare around 2:30pm ready to spend an afternoon at the most CHARMING hotel you could imagine.

We stayed at Masseria Le Torri for the first 5 nights of our trip. Friends, we adored this place. The details are stunning, the people were incredible, and the breakfast food was some of the best we’ve had yet.

Masseria Le Torri offers fresh homemade food every single day. The breakfast selection was decadent and vast (unlike most hotels in Europe). From fresh fruit right off the farm, to homemade focaccia bread each morning, to a daily egg dish with the Masseria’s farmland of vegetables, you just couldn’t go wrong. The details in this Masseria were what made it for us. The flowers, the handpicked roses on the dinner tables, the perfect landscaping, even chandeliers hanging from some of the trees. Can you tell I am in love with this place?! Feel free to click here for a quick 30 second video of the Masseria.

Masseria Le Torri is a gorgeous white brick building, with clean rustic farmhouse decor, and an air of elegance.

After taking in the beauty of our new home for the next few nights, we spend the afternoon by the Masseria’s pool before heading to dinner, homemade by the owner for the guests.

Day 2 - Polignano a mare

Day two, the first full adventure day. We woke up each day bright and early to take advantage of the gorgeous patio we had overlooking the Masseria’s farm and the sea in the distance with a morning workout. After a delicious homemade breakfast it was time to head to Polignano a Mare. Only an 8 minute drive to this parking lot, heading to the city was a breeze.

Polignano a Mare is famously known for its Grotta Piana, a classic Italian pebble beach tucked between two peninsulas creating a stunning rocky cliffside view. The bridge, Ponte Borbonico su Lama Monachile, that overlooks this beach can get crowded, so I highly recommend heading there first thing.

After taking in the beautiful view of Grotta Piana, we headed to the old town (Centro Storico) to wander the charming old town streets full of shops, cafes, and restaurants.

We had heard so much about Puglia’s famous coffees (caffe leccese and caffe speciale, scroll down for more food info), so we stopped at Nero Matto to give the caffe speciale a try. Friends, it was SO good! Made with a lemon peel, amoretto, espresso, and a bit of sugar, this is one fancy espresso shot you can’t pass up.

In my opinion, a perfect vacation day is spent adventuring in the morning and early afternoon, with a few hours spent at the pool before getting ready to head to dinner. Of course this is what we had to do on our first full day!

Prior to heading to dinner at our hotel’s restaurant (highly recommend), we headed down back to Grotta Piana to take in a beautiful sunset and take some even photos of the scenery. If you can, try and carve out some time to spend a few hours here in the evening. You’ll thank me later!

Day 3 - Alberobello & locorotondo

Day three was our busiest day, full of taking in a few of the most iconic sites. The old town of Alberobello is an iconic town for Italy and travel lovers alike to visit. Known for its thousands (yes, thousands) of ancient trullis that make up the homes, shops, and restaurants, it is a must do if you find yourself in the Pulgia area.

We decided to take an Airbnb walking tour (this one)with Trullallero Trullalla. She told us stories of the trulli’s history, how they’re made, the highlights of this town, and ended with a tasting of some of the local specialties. I mean, how can you go wrong with that?! We loved her, and you can click here if you’d like to read more about what she has to offer (her tours are very affordable too!).

After wandering the town and taking some more photos, we headed to I Pastini, just a short 15 minute’s drive from Alberobello for a wine tour and tasting. What I loved about I Pastini is that it is situated right on a Masseria farm land, with the old Masseria still in tact, and even a few trullis on the property. It is truly gorgeous with a view of the iconic town of Locorotondo in the background. It’s also a perfect distance from Alberobello, Locorotondo, Polignano a Mare, or even Bari.

Puglia is known to grow much of Italy’s rose wine variety (rosato). When I was looking up wineries we could visit I noticed most are spread all throughout the region and not exactly convenient to get to. I loved that this beautiful winery was so close to other sites I wanted to see.

Now, maybe I’m spoiled (okay, yeah I think I totally am), but one of the things I’ve loved so much about Italian wineries (including our larger more famous ones) up in Northern Italy is how you can just feel the quaint pride of a family owned establishment, immediately engulfed in the family’s love for their winery. Now, don’t get me wrong we loved our tour and would definitely recommend it, the wine was SO good we even brought home 2.5 cases, we just felt it was a bit more “touristy” than what we’re used to. That being said, if you’re looking to stop at a winery during your sightseeing, this one might be a perfect fit.

After our tour and tasting we headed up a quick 10 minute’s drive to the iconic town of Locorotondo. Similar to Polignano a Mare (and Ostuni so I’m told), this town is known for it’s beautiful white brick buildings, and it’s location sitting atop a beautiful hill top.

Our original plan was to head to Controra for dinner, but sadly they were closed. It turned out not being a problem at all as we went back to Polignano a Mare for one of our favorite dinners of the trip! We (starvingly) decided on Bella ‘Mbriana which we were a bit apprehensive about as we thought it might be too touristy, but our rumbling stomachs told us it was time! We had such great food. Tyler’s pizza was delicious, and I highly recommend the stuffed eggplant appetizer. So good! But, if you’re in Locorotondo, definitely give Controra a try.

Day 4 tuesday - grotta della poesia & torre sant’ andrea

Click the image above to shop some of my favorite swimsuits from this trip, including this one!

Friends, day four is a day I’d been looking forward to most on this trip! It was time to head to Grotta della Poesia. An easy hour (and some change) drive from Polignano a Mare you find yourself at the famous swimming hole on the Adriatic sea. There is a parking lot here, and a small euro charge to enter the area.

Technically you’re not supposed to jump into it, but we couldn’t help ourselves! There is also a set of stairs carved out in the stone leading down if you want to go for a swim without having to jump in. We could’ve stayed here twelve hours straight and never get bored.

After taking in this beautiful beach area we headed a quick 8 minutes south to Torre Sant’ Andrea, another beautiful rock formation beach. There are plenty of these types of beaches in the Lecce area (where Grotta della Poesia and Torre Sant’ Andrea are) if you’re looking for more beaches. The Grotta della Poesia was the one I wanted to visit most, and Torre Sant’ Andrea is nearby, many of the others are a bit more spread out. After our little soak up of the Torre, we headed back up to Polignano for a walk around the town and dinner.

Day 5 - monopoli & grotta palazzese

Click the image above to watch a quick little video of it :)

It was another perfect vacation day spending the morning and early afternoon adventuring around a new town, with a little afternoon relaxing by the pool. If you’ve seen photos of Puglia, you’ve probably seen photos of the fisherman’s town, Monopoli, with it’s beautiful blue fishing boat pier. A quaint little town with winding streets of white brick buildings situated close amongst each other with beautiful churches, a castle, and a stunning coastline, you’re sure to be in aw yet again. Monopoli is the perfect town to wander without a plan, hopping in and out of shops, and stopping every now and then to have a coffee in the outdoor cafes. If you do, you have to try the caffe ginseng, quite possibly my new favorite coffee!

We also found some adorable enoteca’s (wine shops) to pick up a variety of rosés from the local area. Our wine rack is thanking us!

After our morning adventure and afternoon pool day, it was time to get ready for yet another Pinterest board moment coming to life with dinner at the infamous Grotta Palazzese. This stunning restaurant is situated in a cave in the Polignano a Mare cliffside, with all outdoor seating, and the view to last a lifetime. We didn’t think twice about making a reservation here when planning this trip. After the fact, we’d heard some people say they saw some reviews saying the service was poor and the food was just okay. Honestly, we did not experience that at all, rather, we could not have loved our experience more. We each chose the 3 course a la carte menu and shared each dish we got. I got the stuffed zucchini flowers, shrimp tartar cacio a pepe, and the filet while T got the veal, tortellini, and lobster. I think my choices were better ;). But we thought our food was delicious, and the service was also great. Obviously, it’s a bit pricey, but in our opinion it’s a memory we are going to savor forever and worth every penny.

Day 6 - Borgo Egnazia

Day six was the start to our last few days of being pool and beach bums at a the resort we’ve been looking forward to visiting, Borgo Egnazia. With a private beach club, golf course, gym, wellness spa, tennis courts, two pools, bars, and numerous restaurants, it’s easy to stay at the Borgo and never leave. Which is exactly what we did!

Pro tip for my military members out there, you can apply for the American Express Platinum card free of charge, which then includes special offers on a selection of Find Hotels and Resorts which is how we found this location. You may get extra points, hotel credits, upgrades, late check out, and other perks when booking through Amex travel.

The ambience of this hotel is that of a romantic and peaceful spa with everything you could ask for at your fingertips. It felt like we were in old world luxurious Italy while on this property.

We began our stay here at the pool (we saw this coming didn’t we? ;) ), with an afternoon cocktail and snack at the bar, and a gorgeous dinner outside at La Calce. La Calce’s menu focuses on healthier options (we’re in Italy friends, of course pasta is still on the menu) and we both loved it.

Day 7 - cala masciola

Click the image above to shop this swimsuit!

Ugh, day seven was my day. Anyone else feel like they were born to lay by the beach all day? Lol. We made for a perfect last day heading to the Borgo’s beach club Cala Masciola. Of course, not before a yummy breakfast.

The breakfast selection included juices, coffee options, multiple egg selections with local and fresh ingredients, homemade bread and pastries, local yogurt and fruits, and so much more. Seriously SPOILED in the food department here! I highly recommend a green juice with ginger, mm mm mm!

Cala Masciola is situated about a 20 minute’s walk from the main resort area, a beautiful walk through the golf course to the seaside (or a quick drive in the resort’s adorable old school open air “bus”). With loungechairs all over the dock and yard, you just can’t have a bad seat.

We headed to the beach club’s restaurant for a yummy seafood inspired lunch of the most delicious tuna and amberjack tartare sandwiches. They make a mean limoncello spritz, and I wish I could remember the name of my drink! The Napoleonese? Maybe..I probably butchered that. With sea salt seltzer, gin, and homemade vermouth and lemon. It was delish!

If you can make it to Cala Masciola for either lunch or dinner, I promise you won’t be disappointed.

Oh but friends. Our dinner this night. BOY was dinner good. We ate at another one of the Borgo’s restaurants, La Frasca. The ambience is that of an elegant old farmland with classic Puglian dishes. We opted for the tasting menu for two. The best stuffed artichoke, and beef orecchiette you could dream up. Not to mention the (local) fig and almond stuffed rotisserie chicken. Goodness gracious this meal was unreal I wish I could go back right now! Even if you’re just dropping by the Borgo for lunch or dinner, you really will adore your experience.

Day 8 - heading back home

The last day came so quickly I could cry. Fortunately for us, the last day was our worst weather day not really becoming warm enough to sit by the pool (which my sun-poisoned skin probably manifested but, hey). We spent the morning with a workout on the tennis courts, me creaming my beautiful talented husband in a quick match (lol), and then a walk around the golf course which happened to be hosting an Italian Professional Golf Tournament. We spent the morning indulging in our final breakfast outside on the restaurant’s patio, browsing the store, and walking back to the beach for the next few hours before it was time to say our goodbyes. Ending our trip with one more lunch at Cala Masciola, it was sadly the end of a perfect trip.

One last thing. What the heck should you eat in Puglia?! Here is a quick list of some things you should definitely give a try that Puglia is known for.

Focaccia
Caffe Leccese (a specialty almond coffee)
Rose
Orecchiette Pasta
Puccia (a stuffed sandwich, the tuna puccia at Cala Masciola is to die for)
Pasticciotti (a specialty baked good, you have to try the amaretto)
Almond everything

And that’s it folks. I hope you enjoyed yet another travel blog. As always, I actually have a“travel hacks” highlight where I explain how to use google maps to save places that you want to visit in the future, whether you have a trip planned or not! Click hereto view that, go through these places and be sure to save your favorites! I’d love to hear which ones you end up going to! Never hesitate to DM me on Instagram or shoot me an email here, I love hearing from you!

Until next time, XO,

Di

P.S. you can shop a few of my favorite swimsuits from the trip here!