Road Trip Through The Must-Do’s Of Scotland

*Before we hop in, if you’re reading this in 2020 and can’t currently travel, scroll down to the very bottom to see how I save future travel plans in google maps!*

Nine days, six towns, hundreds of miles, and the views of a lifetime.

Hundreds, even thousands of sheep roaming the green mountain hills.

Rock formations and hikes straight out of National Geographic.

Steak and ale pie.

Fisherman towns with people smiling from ear to ear.

Our trip to Scotland was nothing short of wonderful.

My whole life I’ve really been a beach girl. I love a good museum or famous landmark here and there, but if I had to choose between heading somewhere tropical and somewhere, well, not tropical, I’d definitely choose palm trees and sandy beaches.

It wasn’t until back in early March when my husband and I made our “Travel Spreadsheet” that Scotland and Ireland landed on my list of “must do’s.” Yes, we made an entire spreadsheet of where we want to visit before moving from Italy in a few years! And if I’m honest if it was only up to me to make the list Scotland would’ve been on the “would love to go to” page instead of the “need to go” page. But thank goodness gracious for my sweet husband (once again) for putting Scotland in his top 5 because I cannot wait to go back.

Other than driving on the wrong side of the road AND the wrong side of the car, Scotland is the poster child for the simple life, being awe struck by untouched nature, and the kindest of people.

Speaking of driving, beware because the only car rental options (that we could find at least) were manual. So be sure that someone with you (or you) can drive manual!

A few tips for driving on the very wrong side of the road and the car:

Make your husband do it.
Make your husband Youtube how to drive stick after being stopped on a hill so you don’t ruin the engine (speaking from experience?!...ask T).
When turning right sing unanimously “turning right, stay left, turning right, stay left”
Look both ways at least 7 times before going because cars coming from the right are closer than they appear.

Honestly though, it wasn’t bad at all! It was very weird at first, but you get used to it and just do what the person in front of you is doing! Very professional tips over here, don’t you worry I’ve got you covered.

I can’t wait to share our trip with you. Though I’m probably a bit biased, I am so happy with how our trip turned out. We did learn a few things along the way, so I’m going to tell you everything that we did so that you can plan the best parts, and make some changes to the parts we’d do differently next time. Oh, and if you’re a Harry Potter or Outlander fan, you’re going to love this trip!

Day 1 - Glasgow

If you’re new around here, hi! Welcome to my blog! My husband and I currently live in Italy, in the middle of quite a historic year to say the least. Travel and tourism is open for numerous countries in the European Union and the UK (though constantly changing). Our original flight plan was to arrive in Glasgow at 10am in the morning and have the entire day to explore the city. Well, COVID had other plans for us! Literally less than 24 hours before we were supposed to leave, our layover country was added to the UK’s “red list” meaning we would have to quarantine for 14 days upon arrival. Long story short, we rearranged our plans and arrived into the city at 7:45pm. Though we missed out on a full day, we were still so grateful to have made it!

We rented a car, picking it up in Glasgow and dropping it off at the end of our trip in Edinburgh. We usually choose to book these sort of arrangements through American Express travel which is usually the best price, and the customer service is great, especially if plans change as ours did.

Prior to this, I was looking forward to visiting the University of Glasgow which is known for its gorgeous buildings and quads. Other than a few other landmarks and a lunch spot, we didn’t miss out on much we wanted to do.

We did have dinner at the Brew Dog which was a delicious choice!

Day 2 - Oban

Day two, the fun begins! We set off early in the morning with our final destination being Oban, Scotland, with a few stops along the way.

We first stopped at the Inverary Castle which you may recognize from Downton Abbey. It is one of the most well kept castles in Scotland, and definitely shows for it. We stayed here for a little over an hour, going through the entire castle and enjoying it’s gardens. They also have a cute little coffee shop with tables outside where you can stay for a cup of tea.

Next is a quick stop at Saint Conan’s Kirk in Lochawe. A kirk is an old Scottish church. This particular one is set on a most gorgeous lake. The views are gorgeous, though you wouldn’t need more than about 30 minutes to take in this site.

We were then on our way to our final destination, Oban, where I’d scheduled a scotch and whiskey tasting experience at the famous Oban Distillery. My husband is a big scotch guy, so this was more for him though I really did enjoy it too!

Prior to our tour we had lunch on the main street in the middle of town. I ended up adoring the little fisherman’s town of Oban. If I’d known how cute it was I would’ve planned to stay more in this area. I’d definitely stay longer next time.

For lunch we went to Cuan Mor, where we had the BEST smoked salmon! Highly recommended. After a quick snack it was time for the scotch and whiskey experience.

Mike, our guide, was so kind and knowledgeable, making the learning process of how to make scotch and whiskey understandable and fun to learn about. We were also there during COVID times as I said, so we weren’t able to do the tour portion, but we were so satisfied with what we got in the experience! Many of these distilleries produce limited bottles that you can only purchase if you go to the distillery, which is what we got at Oban. T was happy you could say!!

After a little stroll around the pier, we made our way to our hotel which was about 30 minutes south of Oban on Loch Melfort.

We stayed at the Loch Melfort Hotel and friends, you need to stay here. NEED. Set right on the lakefront with a wide open green lawn full of goats and shaggy cows. Yep, you read that right. Shaggy. Cows. This ended up being the only place we actually saw the Highland’s infamous shaggy cows! As you can see below, we really got up close and personal!

After a stroll around the lawn and down to the water to take in the view, we had a fantastic dinner right in the hotel restaurant. The Loch Melfort Hotel has a great restaurant that serves fresh, local, and seasonal food. I’m not lying when I say it was one of our favorite meals. You have to try the chocolate brownie and the fish of the day, just trust me on this one.

We headed back to our patio to soak up the stunning sunset while the cows grazed on the grass.

Now let’s talk breakfast. If you follow me on Instagram you know that I LOVE eggs, and am a sucker for a good breakfast or brunch. Breakfast is difficult (to say the least) to come by in the small town in Northern Italy we live in. So, any time we travel I look high and low to find a yummy breakfast spot to get my fix! Goodness gracious we thought dinner was good. Guys, the scrambled eggs and salmon? Heavenly. You have to try it. Be sure to check the website for any specials they’re offering. When we visited we got breakfast included (a two course breakfast with drink no less), and a discount on dinner. If you can’t tell already, I was a major fan of this hotel. Did I mention they have a resident dog?! Ugh, I need to move on before this entire blog is about the Loch Melfort Hotel. And no, they’re not sponsoring this! Maybe next time ;)

Day 3 - Road Trip To The Isle of Skye

Calling all Harry Potter Fans! This one is for you. Day three was our longest day spent in the car with a total of six hours driving. It didn’t feel half as bad as it sounds given the scenery was gorgeous and our exciting stops along the way. Driving on the west coast of Scotland isn’t freeways and busy roads, its mountain winding back country roads lined with sheep, lakes, and infinite grassy rolling hills.

Our first stop was at the Glenfinnan Viaduct. You’ll recognize this as the famous train bridge in the Harry Potter movies. It was so fun to see in person, and I didn’t realize that the view on the other side is of a gorgeous lake set between two mountains. Talk about a two for one! Definitely head here if you have any Harry Potter fans in your group, it’s right on the way too.

After the Glenfinnan Viaduct we made our way to the Eilean Donan Castle. The castle originated in the early 13th century and has been renovated to keep it’s existence, though still appearing very medieval. Given it’s extensive history and importance during the lifetime of Scotland, this was a must do for me. Not only does it have a fascinating history, but it’s set on a peninsula right in the center where three Scottish lakes collide. The picture alone is worth the stop. I’m not sure if this is a COVID thing or not, but be advised you do need a reservation to see the castle. You can click here to book your time slot.

From the Eilean Donan Castle we made our way up into the Isle of Skye to the Fairy Pools. Guys. Gals. Have you heard of a midge? Well, I hadn’t either, no one really talks about them in travel blogs. But I definitely am because y’all need a warning!! They are NASTY little bugs. They really only come out in the early morning and late afternoon/evening in wet conditions. As soon as we got to the Fairy Pools it began to drizzle. Cue every freakin’ midge in the country of Scotland to go to the Fairy Pools. I’m not joking when I tell you that poor T had them in his eyelashes. They were EVERYWHERE and nothing really helps. We did pick up some “smidge” for our hikes the next day but in our experience it didn’t work very well!

The Fairy Pools are gorgeous and so worth it if there aren’t midges. If there are, well, walk the two miles at your own risk!!

After this...experience...we headed to our Airbnb for the next two nights at the base of the Isle of Skye in the town of Broadford. Ideally, I would’ve stayed our first night more Northwest at the tip of Skye, but most Airbnb’s and Bed and Breakfasts have a two night minimum.

We stayed in this adorable little tini home and it worked great for us! P.S. you can click here to get $65 off of your first stay or experience!

We headed into town for dinner before a big day of hiking the next day at the Claymore Restaurant where we discovered the heaven that is Scottish Sticky Toffee Pudding. You need this okay? From this night forward we split one every night because it was that good! I’m assuming it’s a Scottish specialty because we never went to a place that didn’t make it!

While we’re on the topic of restaurants in Skye, let’ss talk reservations. Given the state of the world right now we’ve been pretty fortunate that everywhere we’ve travelled is mostly locals or other people from “green'“ countries in the European Union, and sadly no Americans or Australians. So, it’s been easy for us to do what we want without reservations. Well, the Isle of Skye is very large, but there are less than a handful of towns, and even less restaurants. When I say that everyone from Eastern Scotland and all of England was in Skye I mean it. Make a reservation!!

Day 4 - Isle of Skye

It’s hiking day! Today ended being our favorite day of the entire trip. We really had some guardian angels on our side with the weather. There was a 90% chance of rain that day, and we were so fortunate to have blue sky all day, literally running away from the storm until dinner time.

Today we hiked a total of 9 beautiful miles up to the highest peaks and most stunning views.

If you end up staying in Broadford as well, head to Cafe Siaway for a delicious cappuccino before your hike! They add a little cocoa powder to the top ;)

We began our hiking day at one of the most famous hikes, The Storr. It is an aggressive uphill hike, though quite easy to complete if you’re an active person. I’m just going to let our photos do the talking.

From The Storr we headed up the road to the Brother’s Point which is another shorter hike to yet another amazing cliffside view. Here you’ll find sheep all along the hike with you. The point is breathtaking, and you can actually see the also famous “Mealtfalls” from here as well.

From the Brother’s Point we drove to the scenic viewpoint of Mealtfalls for a closer view.

After this quick pitstop we made our way to our final hike of the day, The Quiraing. This is a little over a 4 mile hike that leads up to the top of a mountain for another breath taking view.

From here we drove a bit more North to the Duntulm Sea Viewpoint. There is an old castle set on a beautiful point here as well, but we decided to move on.

By the end of this hiking day so far we were beat. Our original plan was to then head to the Fairy Glen, but the traffic on the single lane road was atrocious, and we decided to skip it and head to the Dunvegan Castle instead. Unfortunately, due to COVID the inside of the castle was closed which is the part we were the most excited for. Though we were still able to wander through its extensive gardens. If you’re going to head to Dunvegan Castle, click here to make an appointment as well.

We ended this spectacular day with dinner in the quaint town of Portree on our way back to the Airbnb. We chose the Isle Inn and it did not disappoint our hungry bellies after a long day of hiking!

Day 5 - Inverness

Day five we hopped in the car in the early morning to head Northeast to Inverness, the capital of the Highlands.

Did anyone else grow up watching the Travel Channel?! I used to LOVE watching Samantha Brown after school. Anywho, I remember watching countless documentaries on the infamous Loch Ness Monster in Northern Scotland. I couldn’t go to Scotland and not go on a boat tour looking for Nessie!! We booked this Loch Ness boat tour through Get Your Guide that also had a gorgeous lakeside view of the famous Urquhart Castle. This is the boat cruise I originally wanted to take as we prefer smaller groups for this type of thing, but COVID kept them closed during our trip. It was a 2 hour boat cruise with a little story telling and a lot of fresh air views.

We chose to see the Urquhart Castle from the lake since we couldn’t go in due to COVID, but I’d definitely have gone if we could go in. Click here to get your tickets.

After our boat cruise we went to check in to our Bed and Breakfast, the Craigmonie Hotel, and meander through the town. I originally wanted to stay at the Urquhart Bay Bed and Breakfast, though they had a two night minimum (and were actually completely booked anyway! So book quick!).

I had high hopes for Inverness given it’s the capital of the Highlands, but I won’t lie I wish we’d spent more time on the west instead of heading here so early. I’m so glad we did the Loch Ness tour, but the town of Inverness itself wasn’t our favorite! We imagined streets of boutiques and cafes, and it wasn’t exactly that. There was a fun bookstore, Leaky’s Second Hand Bookshop, FULL of old vintage books that we loved, but that was really the only thing.

We did go to a couple of really good restaurants that made it worth it though!

We stopped for lunch at the Castle Tavern for some GF fish and chips, and dinner at No 27 Bar and Kitchen (our favorite Toffee Pudding!). Then the refreshing walk back to our hotel.

Day 6 - Saint Andrews and Dundee

We woke today to yummy breakfast at the hotel and set on our way to our next destination.

It was a day for another scotch and whiskey tasting experience! About an hour into the three hour drive to Dunee is where the Dalwhinnie Distillery is. This one though friends was a scotch and CHOCOLATE tasting experience! I liked this one ;) Once again we left with a limited edition bottle which made my sweet husband as happy as a kid in a toy store. From here we hit the road on our way to Saint Andrews.

I’m pretty sure I was like 6 years old when I first found out what Saint Andrews in Scotland was. I come from a family of golf fanatics so it’s only natural that we make our way to the very first golf course in the world, the old course at Saint Andrews. My husband and I love to play golf in our free time and would have loved to actually play here. But since it is so famous they actually run on a lottery basis, and you have to enter to win to even play! We decided to stop for lunch instead and walk around the grounds. I highly recommend the Swilcan Lounge for lunch, it was so yum and such a fun atmosphere to be in if you’re a golfer.

From what I’d read online, Dundee was an adorable little town. Don’t get me wrong, it definitely is! BUT Saint Andrews is even cuter! If I’d known better we would’ve stayed right in the town of Saint Andrews, visited the university, and spent the afternoon roaming through their streets of shops and cafes. Did you know that Saint Andrews University is where Prince William and Princess Kate went?! How fun!

Instead we headed to the town of Dundee to check into our hotel and roam the town. We stayed at the Malmaison Hotel which was great! They have an in-hotel restaurant with a fun little bar and the best bartender! The drinks were delicious and he was so funny! It’s set right in the center of town, close to the water, with plenty of restaurants within walking distance. We walked around the shops and streets (not really boutiques, more like Zara, H&M, etc) before we made our way to some pre-dinner drinks.

Am I the only one that had no idea gin was made in Scotland? Do yourself a favor if you head to Dundee and go to the bar at the Malmaison Hotel (it’s so cute) and get the Tea in the Garden gin cocktail. It comes in a TEA CUP! I mean does it get any cuter? And it’s so delish!

We then headed down the street to the Bird and Bear for dinner. They also had some delicious cocktails to try! Highly recommend the zucchini pepper soup.

Day 7 - Edinburgh

After a delicious breakfast in the hotel, it was finally time to head to Edinburgh. Most of the time when I hear people reminiscing over their trips to Scotland, it’s generally a stay in Edinburgh. Well, friends. It did not disappoint.

Have you watched or read the story Outlander by Diana Gobaldon? Well sister HOP TO IT. Before our trip I researched a bit about where the film was made and found that Lallybroch (Jamie Fraser’s home) is just outside of Edinburgh! Lucky for us, we went on Friday morning, and they opened up to the public post COVID on Thursday! It was totally meant to be and such a fun thing to experience especially while watching the show! Again, you need to book a time slot here!

After driving into the city of Edinburgh and checking into our hotel, we walked to the top of Calton Hill for its stunning views and historical landmarks. You can see the Arthur’s Seat hike from here as well, which we would have done if we’d had a bit more time in Edinburgh. Many people boast about this hike, though we chose to skip it given all the hiking we did in the Highlands to see some more city sites instead.

From Calton Hill we walked back into the city center to visit the Saint Giles Cathedral and the Edinburgh Castle. Once again, you need to reserve your ticket to the Edinburgh Castle. You can click here to do so.

Both of these are on the Royal Mile, which is the famous street with shops and restaurants.

After a stroll through these historical must-do’s it was time for a snack! We headed to Deacon Brodie’s Tavern for a yummy lunch. The outside is so cute, and the food was so yum!

We spent the rest of the afternoon strolling through the shops of the Royal Mile, trying on Tartan scarves, panchos, and sweaters purchasing some gifts and things for ourselves! I got a gorgeous Cashmere Tartan from The House of Edinburgh which was our favorite store for Tartan, wool, and cashmere. We also loved the store Marchbrae, which sold gorgeous British style sweaters, jackets, and scarves.

We then headed to the pub, Dirty Dicks for some pre-dinner drinks. You have to try Edinburgh gin in Grapefruit and Lemongrass flavor with some light tonic. You can thank me later.

Angel’s Share was our choice for dinner for a delicious meal, yummy drinks, and of course some sticky toffee pudding. After which we made the refreshing walk back to the hotel once again.

Day 8 - Edinburgh

Okay, back to breakfast. I love me some eggs, a good omelette, maybe a juice, babe loves some dessert pancakes. But what do I love even more? Somewhere with all of this AND its a cute atmosphere! The Ivy On The Square was exactly that! We booked here on Open Table which I again recommend, it was busy! The restaurant front is full of colorful flowers, and the inside is just as colorful with gorgeous chandeliers and the finest of details. Not to mention the food, I mean it was delicious! They also have afternoon tea which would be just as fun!

The Ivy On The Square is a short walk away from Rose Street which is where some higher end stores are. We meandered through the shops on our way to the famous Victoria Street.

Victoria Street is said to have been the inspiration for Harry Potter’s Diagon Alley. It’s colorful storefronts are a must see. At the base of the street, just a half block away is The Elephant House where JK Rowling actually wrote the stories.

After some morning window shopping it was time for our tour of the Real Mary King’s Close which you can book tickets for here. It’s a tour in the underground streets of the old Close (which simply means street) from the time of the plague and Mary Queen of Scots. Much of its history and stories come from the timeframe of the plague when Scotland lost a major portion of its population due to the illness. Friends. This was WEIRD to experience during the pandemic of COVID19. As with everything right now, we were all at least 2 meters about during the entire tour, wearing masks and sanitizing everything as we moved through the tour. We heard stories of the treatments for the plague, the ways people were infected, and many of their beliefs of how it spread and was treated which stemmed from religious views. Let’s just say I’m thankful for our advancements in medicine since then…

We decided against it in favor of more walking, but we were thinking about heading to Camera Obscura World of Illusions for the afternoon. We’ve heard great things, and if you have kids it’d definitely be something to think about!

After an afternoon just strolling through the streets some more and stopping at a couple cafes for tea and drinks, it was time for dinner. For our last night we went to the Beehive Inn on one of the more popular restaurant scene streets. If you head here you HAVE to get the chicken, bacon, leek pie. Goodness gracious it was yum.

And sadly that was the end of our wonderful week through the country of Scotland.

A few things to note:

Bring a rain jacket. This is the one I have and I love it so much.
You need hiking shoes if you’re hiking in the Highlands. With how wet it often gets, the mud and steep inclines, it’s much easier with real hiking shoes. I love these or these and wear them both frequently.
Midges. Bring some smidge or clothing that covers all of your skin if it’s raining and you’re there in the summer!
The highlands are worth it. Next time I’d spend an entire week just on the west coast and I’d love to visit a few more isles. Many people opt to skip the west coast highlands because they’re too far. They are SO worth it.
Prior to driving and especially hiking, screenshot your map. Service is super spotty and not very strong, so make sure you use it when you have it!
Make reservations outside of the cities at least. The towns outside of the major cities are SMALL yet wonderful. If you’re there during a busy season you will need a reservation for dinner! And book your stays early as well.

And that’s it folks. I hope you enjoyed yet another travel blog. As always, I actually have a “travel hacks” highlight where I explain how to use google maps to save places that you want to visit in the future, whether you have a trip planned or not! Click here to view that, go through these places and be sure to save your favorites! I’d love to hear which ones you end up going to! Never hesitate to DM on Instagram or shoot me an email here, I love hearing from you!

Until next time,

XO,

Di